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Travel

Date: 10-11 May 2009
Venue: Nara, Japan

My flight, JL722 Departed from KLIA at 22.15 on 10/5/2009 and landed at the Kansai International Airport at around 6.00 on 11/5/2009. Finally I was at the land of where I always wanted to be - Japan.

To be honest, I had not planned my journey at all until I boarded the plane. While I was in the plane, with the help of "The Rough Guide to Japan" published by Rough Guides (www.roughguides.com), I decided to make Nara (奈良) my first destination. I have always been relying on travel books such as "Lonely Planet" and "Rough Guide" when I travel alone. They had always been a great help for me to plan my journey. My first tip to travelling alone is to always have a guidebook as a reference.

After I've gone pass the immigration and collected my huge backpack (65L), it was time for me to search for the train station. The public transportation in Japan is really convenient, either by bus or by train. My second tip is to get a Japan Rail Pass. I HIGHLY recommend this to those of you who are backpacking to Japan and know that you will rely heavily on public transport such as trains, and better still, the Shinkansen/bullet train (新幹線). With this pass, you can ride on any of the trains and buses under the Japan Railways Group (JR) unlimitedly within the valid period of the pass.

This pass can be purchased from the Japan Travel Bureau (JTB, www.jtbmalaysia.com/1217920802622) which branches can be found in Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Langkawi and Kota Kinabalu. It comes with different packages for you to choose from to suit your need. For more information, please visit JTB's homepage. I have purchased the pass 1 week before my trip and I've bought a 7-day Ordinary Adult pass for ¥28,300.

So I found the train station. I walked to the counter, took out the purchase receipt of my Japan Rail Pass issued by JTB and happily got my actual pass over the counter. Time for some train ride. To cut story short, I boarded the train on the Yamatoji Line, spent 40 minutes in the train and I'm finally here in Nara.

Brief introduction about Nara: Before Kyoto became the capital of Japan in 794 AD, this honour was held by Nara, a town some 35km further South in an area that is regarded as birthplace of Japanese civilization. During this period, particularly the 7th and 8th centuries, Budhism became firmly established within Japan under the patronage of court nobles, who sponsored magnificent temples and works of art, many of which have survived to this day. Fortunately, history subsequently left Nara largely to its own devices and it remains today a relaxed, attractive place set against a backdrop of wooded hills.1

I came out from the train, went straight to the information counter and talked to lady behind the counter. She was really  friendly and helpful. She gave me a map of Nara with all the major attractions marked on it and told me where the nearest lockers are. Another thing that I like about my trip to Japan was that I could always find lockers nearby the train station so that I can leave my big backpack in the locker and carry only my camera bag with me while I do the sightseeing. For a size of a locker which can fit my backpack cost ¥400 per storage for 24 hours.

nara_map

After walking out of the JR Nara Station, I walked along the Sanjo-Dori street (三条通り) and came to the Sarusawa-ike (猿沢池), a small pond at the entrance to Nara Park, built by Kofukuji Temple for performing a Buddhist ceremony of releasing fish and other aquatic creatures into the pond each year. It is surrounded by willow trees, and the reflection of the 5-storey pagoda of Kofukuji on the water is considered one of the Eight Marvelous Sights of Nara.2 I didn't plan to stay overnight at Nara so I couldn't witness this wonderful sight.

Slightly further down the road is Kōfuku-ji (興福寺). Kōfuku-ji, along with several Buddhist temples, Kasuga Taisha (more details as you read on), the remains of the Heijō Palace, and other sites in Nara, received the distinction of being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name: "Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara".3 This was the place I first met one of the iconic symbols of Nara - deer. Why are deer considered as the icon of Nara? Please read on the article and you will find the answer. Anyway, without any hesitation, I took out my camera and asked someone to take a photo for me.

Dear

There were deers roaming around the place which amazed me how tame they were and how close we can get near to them. There were people selling Shika-Senbei (鹿せんべい, deer cracker), a Japanese rice cracker for feeding the deer.


Tōkondo (東金堂, East Golden Hall), the remaining of the three golden halls (National Teasure)

Tokondo

gojyū-no-tō (五重塔, Five-storied pagoda)

5 storied pagoda

Moving on, I came to Nara Kōen (奈良公園, Nara Park). This is a public park located in the city, established in 1880. The park is one of the "Places of Scenic Beauty" designated by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology (MEXT). The are over 1,200 wild deer roaming freely in the park. This is also under designation of MEXT, classified as a "Natural Monument." While the official size of the park is about 502 ha, the area including the grounds of Tōdai-ji, Kōfuku-ji and Kasuga Shrine, which are either on the edge or surrounded by Nara Park, is as large as 660 ha.

According to local folklore, deer from this area were considered sacred due to a visit from one of the four gods of Kasuga Shrine, Takenomikazuchi-no-mikoto. He was said to have been invited from Kashima, Ibaraki, and appeared on Mt. Mikasa-yama riding a white deer. From that point, the deer were considered divine and sacred by both Kasuga Shrine and Kōfuku-ji. Killing one of these sacred deer was a capital offense punishable by death up until 1637, the last recorded date of that law having been enforced. Post World War II the deer were officially stripped of their sacred/divine status, and were instead designated as National Treasures and are protected as such.4

Jinrikisha (人力車, ricksha) service by the Himura-jinja, a shrine dedicated to the god of ice

I walked across the park, relaxingly while enjoying the nice view in the park. My next destination is Tōdai-ji (東大寺). Tōdai-ji is a Buddhist temple complex. Its Daibutsuden (大仏殿, Great Buddha Hall), houses the world's largest statue of the Buddha Vairocana, known in Japanese simply as Daibutsu (大仏). The temple also serves as the Japanese headquarters of the Kegon school of Buddhism. Eventhough the Daibutsuden was burnt down by fire and was reconstructed again to 70% of it original size in 1709, it is stll the largest wooden building in the world. (WOW!!) The temple is a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site.5

The main gate of Tōdai-ji

After the main gate, I followed the path and went through 2 other gates before reaching to the Daibutsuden. The entrance to Daibutsuden is just beside the middle gate and the entrance fee is ¥500.

Nandaimon (南大門, The Great Southern Gate)


Middle gate to the Daibutsuden


Daibutsuden, the world's largest wooden building


Daibutsu, the world's largest statue of Buddha Vairocana


The temple gives the following dimensions for the statue:

Height: 14.98 m (49.1 ft)
Face: 5.33 m (17.5 ft)
Eyes: 1.02 m (3.3 ft)
Nose: 0.5 m (1.6 ft)
Ears: 2.54 m (8.3 ft)
Weight: 500 tonnes

To the right of the Daibutsuden's entrance is a scary looking wooden statue of the Yakushi Nyorai (薬師如来), the Buddha of Medicine and  Healing. Touching a part of the Yakushi Nyorai and then the corresponding part of your own body is said to heal any ailments you have there. I thought I was healthy therefore I did not try.

After wandering around the Daibutsuden, I then decided to walk to Nigatsu-dō (二月堂). The sun was sunning brightly and the weather was warm. It didn't stop me from walking relaxingly while enjoying the beautiful scenary.

Daibutsu pond

The first torii (鳥居) I see in Japan. A torii is a traditional Japanese gate commonly found at the entry to a Shinto shrine, as well as Buddhist temples.

A deer resting under the shade in front of a restaurant

After around 15 minutes of walking, I reached Nigatsu-dō. Nigatsu-dō offers a good view over the city from its wooden terrace. Unfortunately because the sun was shining so brightly, it was difficult to have a good view as the reflection of the light was too strong. Next to Nigatsu-dō is the Sangatsu-dō (三月堂), which is Nara's oldest building. However, I did not stop by this place. Maybe I would the next time I visit Nara again.

Stone lanterns...

The stairs leading to the Nigatsu-dō

Wooden Terrace of Nigatsu-dō

Bronze lanterns were hung all over the wooden terrace of Nigatsu-dō, though I don't know the reason behind it. They do look nice and special.

Sacred Water

Student outing

Done with Nigatsu-dō, next stop, Kasuga Taisha (春日大社). Taisha, in Japanese, means "Shrine". This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well as one of the oldest and largest shrines in Japan. It was built in 768 by the Fujiwaras, a clan that was powerful when Nara was made capital of Japan. There were originally four Shinto deities enshrined in four main structures, but a fifth was added in 1135. Over the years the shrine, closely affiliated with the powerful Kofukuji, received many sacred gifts from the Fujiwaras and the Imperial family, and many of these items are preserved in its treasure house. Today, visitors will be impressed by the bright vermillion lacquer on the wooden railings and the many lanterns hanging from its eaves. The lanterns are presented as offerings by worshippers, and are lighted twice a year in a beautiful ceremony. The deer, which roam freely all over the city, are thought to be sacred to this shrine.2

While I was walking, I saw more students. They really do seem like they were enjoying themselves with friends. I saw this boy who got frightened by the deers that were surrounding him. It was funny to see how he was shouting and running.

A tea house I saw on my way to Kasuga Taisha

On my way to Kasuga Taisha I walked through a very peaceful and serene path. I felt so tranquil while walking. Not forgetting the shade, so that I didn't need to stay under the hot sun.

Love...

Human 1 side, deers the other...

More stone lanterns

Finally, Kasuga Taisha...

Bronze lanterns by the worshippers...

From the moment I reached Nigatsu-dō, and during the whole walking journey to Kasuga Taisha, I was amazed by the sheer numbers of stone lanterns erected in this area. There are easily thousands of them.

Stone pole with the carving "Nara Kōen"

I left Nara Kōen and head back to the JR Nara Station. While on my way back, I decided to walk past Nara-machi (ならまち), just to have a look of the quaint area of traditional shops and lattice-front houses off the tourist path. There wasn't much to see here but this definitely an eye opener for me as I have only seen this kind of houses and streets in Japanese dramas.


Even the sewage cover is nice...


While walking I read through my travel guide book, called up a budget hotel in Kyoto to book for a room for tonight. As soon as I reached the JR Nara Station, I collected my bag from the locker and took a train from the straight to my next destination - Kyoto. Of course I get to take the train by using my JR Rail Pass.

Stay tune for Pt2 of my journey... to be continued...

For more photos please visit my flickr @  http://www.flickr.com/photos/mauinsons/sets/72157618325370629/

Reference

1 The Rough Guide to Japan, Rough Guide Publishing

2 http://www.infomapjapan.com/sight_Nara.phtml

3 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kōfuku-ji

4 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nara_Park

5 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tōdai-ji

Last Updated (Thursday, 19 November 2009 14:30)

 
Comments (3)
3 Wednesday, 18 November 2009 10:00
YOu are certainly turning your life in to many great adventures...... All good Khim
2 Tuesday, 17 November 2009 22:57
Yup I was alone but of course I did meet up with friends and families along the way. Follow me on my next few parts and you'll know more :)

Basically this is how I travel by train during my 13 days there: Osaka -> Nara -> Kyoto -> Osaka -> Aomori -> Hakodate -> Sapporo -> Aomori -> Hachinose -(shinkansen)> Tokyo

The Shinkansen itself (oneway), if purchased the ticket on the spot, cost more than the Rail Pass itself
1 Tuesday, 17 November 2009 22:50
wow.you're there alone backpacking? the railpass seems quite exp to me..nearly RM1k unless u use it to travel to other prefecture..that got include Shinkansen?

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